Down the beaten path

Sweat beads on our foreheads as we make our way through Bang Khen, a small industrial town north of Bangkok, Thailand.  As we weave through the streets and alley ways, I am thrown back into time.  Memories flood back to when I walked these streets as a young 19 year old girl, studying Thai food and living in this rural district.  I remember which coffee shops I frequented, the small wifi cafe that was always crowded with prepubescent Thai boys playing World of Warcraft, the delicious noodle stall I usually ate two meals at and I wondered if the people I’ve once spoken broken Thai with still live their lives here.  Finally, I am flung back into the present time where we find ourselves at the steps of a small restaurant.

No doors divide this hole-in-the-wall from the outside street, only a large garage door that was pulled open during feeding hours.  Inside there are small wooden tables for customers to seat themselves in and humming fans waving back and forth.  Each table has a jug of water, silverware, pink dainty napkins in plastic cups, and a small pale green urn-looking-bowl that is filled with naam prik, Thai chili pepper fish sauce, an essential to meals.  An ice bucket sits at the entrance of the restaurant with glass cups stacked on a neat shelf.  It speaks of inviting customers to feel at home, to take part in the acts of making a place home, and for me, it was home.

A lady peeks over from the cashier and stares at us, then at me.  With recognition flooding her eyes, she speaks, “Pono, you come from America?!”  With a silly grin I respond happily that yes, I have finally returned and introduce Loren, Rel, Noah, and Issac.  Pui, the lady, is the younger sister of the cook, my good friend Apple.  Pui seats us, informs me that Apple is on her way and to order whatever we want.  The menu doesn’t exist.  Well, in ways we are accustomed to.  Pictures of food, faded from the Thai sun, cover the two walls that make up the front of the restaurant.   There is only Thai script and the cost underneath each photo making an illiterate Thai reader solely rely on the weathered photos. “Point what looks good and we will get that,” I inform the guys.  Excitedly they ask what have I had that’s good, what do I suggest, what is that, and so forth.

We stuffed ourselves silly with Apple’s delicious cooking: laab muu (minced pork with cilantro, roasted ground up rice, lime juice, shallots, slivers of red onion, and cucumbers), tom yahm goon (hot and spicy soup with shrimp, squid, lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, mushrooms, and tomatoes), delicate squid tossed with curry-like sauce, khao pad goong (shrimp fried rice), an egg wrapped up in sausage, and morning glories tossed with seasonings with pork.  It was a feast that I have waited almost four years to have again and it was no disappointment.

Apple came out to meet Loren and the guys and asked how the food was.  “Aroy mak mak,” I exclaim, “khop khun kha Apple!” Rel mentions that her food was the best he’s had and she gasps in shock and giggles.  She lets me know that she is happy I came back to see her and that all of the food was free.  I deny the generous offer saying I would love to pay her for the food and she grips my shoulder, “I eensist.”  I stare at her and say that I will think about it and after two beats, she catches onto the joke and laughs.

After a small battle of free vs pay, she sends us out on our way victoriously along with two bottles.  One is dandelion colored and the other a deep purple-blue.  Apple made these juices; the first, a Chrysanthemum flavor and the other, Butterfly Pea and Pandan.  The Chrysanthemum flavor was sweet and thick, almost like a thinned out cough syrup while the other was earthy, sweet, and easier to enjoy.  A trip to Apple’s always ends sweetly.

Aroy mak mak: Very delicious.  A double usage of ‘mak’ is equivilent to the English usage of ‘very.’
Khop khun kha: Thank you.  Kha and khrap (female and male usage) follow the end of a sentence to show respect.

Authors Note:  Unfortunately, no photos were taken due to starving young adults, a hot humid day, and the excitement to eat, honestly, some of the best Thai food.  Another trip will be made and restraint will be exercised so that viewers may visually enjoy her cooking.

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